After two nights in Dalhousie, it was time to pack up and continue on to Dharamshala. It was another 4+ hour car ride on winding roads that curve around the mountain sides, providing for beautiful scenery. I stayed at Surya McLeod in Upper Dharamshala (also known as McLeodganj), in a room with an amazing view of the valley below, as well as of monkeys playing in the trees and on the roof of a neighboring building. After the long drive, I opted to stretch out and relax, while taking in the view.
Tour of Dharmshala
The next morning it was time to meet up with a local guide to check out this town and learn about its British and Tibetan connections. The first stop was a lookout point, where the homes of the indigenous, semi-nomadic locals could be seen. Both in Dalhousie and on the drive to Dharamshala I had noticed several homes in the mountains, but no roads leading to the homes. The guide informed me that there were no roads, as the people in these homes walked up and down the mountainsides when traveling. I found this to be incredibly fascinating, and asked a lot of questions.
Turns out the homes of these people have been modernized, meaning they have electricity and water, but during the summers they don’t live in their homes, as they take their herds to the other side of the mountain for grazing. They have terraced the mountainsides so that they can grow crops (corn and wheat mostly) to sustain them throughout the year. There is a local elementary school for the kids of these families, but after 6th grade they need to transfer to the school in the city. Traditionally these people haven’t really attended school, so the local elementary school is helpful for getting them some education. This was an excellent opportunity for self-reflection and appreciation on the ease of my life. The semi-nomadic lifestyle doesn’t sound like an easy one, especially considering it snows in these parts during the winter.
Church of St. John in the Wilderness
After the lookout point, we visited the Church of St. John in the Wilderness. It was built in 1852, and is one of the oldest cathedrals in North India. Its gothic character and stained glass windows really set it apart from other local buildings. The church is still actively used for worship on Sundays, and is open to visitors daily.
Behind the church is a memorial to Lord Elgin, the British Viceroy of India, who died in office in 1863. His wife buried him here, per his wish, as he was quite fond of Dharamshala, saying it reminded him of his native Scotland. Lord Elgin felt that Dharamshala should be named the summer home of the British Raj, but a year after his death Shimla received this honor.
In addition to the memorial for Lord Elgin, there is a cemetery beside the church. Among those buried here is David McLeod, the founder of Dharamshala. Walking through the cemetery I noticed that it is still an active cemetery. Some had been laid to rest here very recently, while others had been buried back in the late 1800s. Being the only catholic cemetery in town, it makes sense that it is still in use.
After taking in these sites with British backgrounds, it was time to head to the other side of town to learn more about the Tibetan culture and people.
